Sandy's invitation hastened my plans for a trip to Scotland. North Berwick and picturesque Pitlochry were in my plans for Scotland however now I must investigate the choice of golf courses in the Costa del Sol.
Sandy's letter arrived from out of the Mediterranean blue, "I've sold my business and house in London and moved to Spain. Come and see me the next time you are in this part of the world." Sandy's invitation hastened my plans for a trip to Scotland. North Berwick and picturesque Pitlochry were in my plans for Scotland however now I must investigate the choice of golf courses in the Costa del Sol. La Quinta with La Conche Beyond Of course I'd play La Quinta which was a strong 7-iron shot from Sandy's balcony. But where else? Valderrama, The Real Club de Golf Sotogrande or what's this? Alcaidesa reputed to be the only links golf course in Spain. And as a golfer with a preference for links golf this became my must play. The Rock of Gibraltar From Alcaidesa La Quinta turned out to be everything I expected from an inland resort-style golf course. There are three nines: San Pedro, Ronda and Gaudaiza. As for Alcaidesa, what can I say? Linksland it is not (too hilly) but just like North Berwick's Glen Club it offers some marvellous views. However instead of seeing the Bass Rock it's the Rock of Gibraltar.
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My plan for Portugal was to go north of Lisbon to a wee village called São Martinho do Porto and perhaps play Prai d'el Rey before heading home for Homecoming Scotland 2009. But alas it didn't happen. The lass who decided to run with my article about The Machrie wanted something about the Algarve. And so I ended up visiting Vale do Lobo, the Algarve's oldest golf resort with its Royal Course which includes what is perhaps the most photographed golf hole in continental Europe. The 16th - Royal Course - Vale do Lobo Moving west and playing Alto Golf with its 604 metres-long ‘O Gigante’ and then Parque da Floresta near Sagres I found the nice wee village I was seeking albeit in Western Algarve and not where I'd planned. And near Sagres there's an historic lighthouse located at Europe's south-westernmost point. It's called, "The end of the world" because to the pioneering Portuguese sailors as they set out for the unknown, they were sighting the last piece of their known world. "Beyond here be dragons". The Lighthouse at the End of the World – Sagres
Hong Kong is a favourite stopover for Kiwis and ex-pat Scots returning to Godzone. Lots of shopping malls and very classy department stores for last-minute purchases and one or two reasonably-priced public golf courses. Jockey Club Kau Sai Chau The Jockey Club Kau Sai Chau (Pronounced Kaaw sigh chow) was developed thanks to the efforts and money provided by the Hong Kong Jockey Club. Now there are three courses, the South, the East and the North course which is a really tough test of one's golf skills. It is very hilly and consequently also a test of one's physical condition. And perhaps it's is no coincidence that golfer and fitness freak, Gary Player was chosen to design the course. The signature hole is the 14th played across an inlet to a peninsula green which slopes from back to front. The hole also offers a great view of the Kowloon Hills and towards the peaks of Hong Kong Island. My daughter, Mhàiri who's my preferred source for feedback on my art work tells me this piece isn't quite my style and I usually go along with her recommendations. But in this case I'm determined to disagree because for me the colours capture that mysterious feeling I associate with Hong Kong and nearby China. My friend Joe an ex-pat from Hong Kong who provided me with the pronunciation for Kau Sai Chau is OK with my artistic impression. And that's the artistic good news for me. The bad golfing news is that in recent years Kau Sai Chau has become comparatively speaking more expensive. Joe, like myself loves Godzone and joins our golf group for trips within New Zealand and to Queensland where it's a wee bit warmer during a New Zealand winter. Fred is also one of us golf guys and for years I'd heard him rave about the Greg Norman designed Brookwater course south of Brisbane. Brookwater
Fred is rarely positive about anything and so for him to be so enthusiastic was something different and made it a must play for me. Especially since I'd become bored with playing too many look-alike Gold Coast resort-style courses, and I wasn't disappointed. However on this occasion I hadn't done my homework and so it came as a surprise that Brookwater had a feeling of playing Augusta National and if I'd done my research I'd have learned that the Aussies call it, "Australia's answer to Augusta National". Brookwater is Augusta with gum trees and thankfully little was done to alter the natural contours of the land. It is very hilly, just like Augusta, but the fairways are much tighter. Brookwater is a beautiful experience but I must add that in spite of my dislike of carts I'm very glad Fred and I drove rather than walked this wonderful course. Robina Woods, now called Palmer Gold Coast was high on my list of must play. Ever since I started on my artistic journey I had looked forward to one day capturing my impression of the clubhouse at Robina Woods; and now was my chance. I've always said if there is such a thing as reincarnation then I want to be an architect the next time round. More in the mould of Frank Lloyd Wright and not the kind of architect who designs the towering edifices that are sore on the eyes while walking along the shores of Surfer's Paradise. There's something about the Robina Woods clubhouse which I find very appealing. It has a striking appearance and yet it's not overstated. And while I'm not a big fan of artificial lakes on golf courses, the presence of water is very soothing and in this case very appropriate. Robina Woods Palmer Coolum on the Sunshine Coast also has a striking appearance. An 8-metre tall T-Rex adjacent to the 9th green. Clive Palmer has been described as the Aussies answer to Donald Trump but unlike Donald he doesn't make many changes to his acquisitions with the exception of the presence of a replica Tyrannosaurus Rex promoting his Dinosaur Park. Tyrannosaurus Rex at Coolum A recent report states, “A large consignment of dinosaurs have completed their journey to Palmer Coolum Resort and are set to take residence in what will become the largest dinosaur park in the world with over 150 specimens.”
Fortunately the specimen adjacent to the 9th green had its loud roar and swishing tail switched off for the duration of the time we spent there. And this was very much appreciated since I was faced with a curly four-footer to half the front-nine. Our final day was over with no worries about returning to Godzone and being faced with a Gigantosaurus or other member of the dinosaur clan. Maori Carving - Carrington Golf Club It was 1973 when I arrived in New Zealand, the land of my dreams. The place I'd dreamed of as a shivering teenager suffering through yet another bitter Scottish winter. And on depressingly dark days spending time at the local library looking at books about New Zealand. Viewing images of Rotorua's hot pools and thinking, "One day maybe?" The photographs of the many beautiful sun-bleached beaches and realising that, God willing, I could spend Christmas Day on a beach and enjoy what they called a barbecue. And having seen the All Blacks playing rugby in Scotland I was aware of Maori. Now at last I was here in what Maori call Aotearoa and learning more about the people and their culture. 27 years after my arrival they opened Kauri Cliffs, followed four years later by Cape Kidnappers. Way back in 1973, New Zealand was considered a backwater by international golfers and better suited for fishing, famous walks or enjoying what's been called, "A simpler place in time". Nevertheless there were two courses in the North Island which reminded me of playing golf in Scotland. Wairakei, which continues to remind me of Gleneagles and Paraparaumu, a links golf course. Right down to the last hump, unfortunate bump and strong breeze to test the very best of golfers. Later on I discovered that there was a links-style golf course right on my Auckland doorstep at Muriwai Beach. The wee village of Muriwai is only about 40 minutes from Auckland's CBD and yet it feels like another place in time. Especially around Christmas time when the Pohutukawa, the Kiwis call them the Christmas tree, are in full bloom. Christmas at Muriwai
Not everyone comes to Muriwai for golf and depending on the time of year there's the attractive sight of gannets, fur seals, blue penguins and excellent surfing conditions. As for golfers it's a dry golf course to play on a typically wet and sodden winter's day in Auckland. Magical Muriwai Muriwai and Paraparaumu are located in the North Island, which a visiting friend from Vancouver called, "One great big park". Whereas it's the South Island, which he didn't visit, that has the dramatic scenery and a better feel of, ‘A simpler place in time’. It's here in the far south near Invercargill that there's the truest links course in New Zealand. Oreti Sands at Southland Golf Club, features in, True Links by George Peper and Malcolm Campbell who suggest there are only 246 true links golf courses in the whole world and the Kiwis are very fortunate in having nine of them in Godzone. It's true to say that Muriwai Golf Club is something of a hidden gem for international travellers who thought they'd done their homework on Auckland and therefore plan on playing the Dr Alister MacKenzie designed Titirangi. The Robert Trent Jones Jnr's Gulf Harbour or prestigious Royal Auckland. Fortunately for a group of wealthy Americans who were sailing around New Zealand in a cruise ship they had been told about Muriwai. And while talking to them at the 19th I learned that they'd stopped off at places like Cape Kidnappers and Kauri Cliffs which they immensely enjoyed. And yet it was Muriwai that gave them their best "golf experience". As to why that should be? The best answer I could get was that it exceeded their expectations of club golf in New Zealand. A links-style course, a good test of golf and the casual Kiwi ambience of the clubhouse camaraderie. It's this casual Kiwi culture which keeps me in Godzone. And it's why I've included in my artistic impressions lesser-known courses like Arrowtown with its antique farming implements as landmarks on the golf course. The rural view from the clubhouse at Whangamata on the Coromandel Peninsula. And although Millbrook Resort couldn't possibly be described as unknown there's something about their 19th hole which feels so casual Kiwi. And if only they had a better selection of malt whiskies I could have enjoyed the best of both worlds. It was at Titirangi that I was introduced to club golf in Godzone. Titirangi (Fringe of Heaven) was the obvious choice since it was only a couple of miles from where I lived. The wee village of Titirangi differs from Muriwai Beach in that it's adjacent to the Waitakere Ranges. A chain of hills to the west of Auckland and when viewed from the Waitemata Harbour it always reminds me of the view of the North Shore mountains from Vancouver's CBD. And while thinking about these two vistas it has just struck me that, just as North Shore, Vancouver has its famous Stanley Thompson designed Capilano. Titirangi is blessed by the fact that it was designed by another famous golf course architect, Dr Alister MacKenzie. In 1927 while walking the proposed course MacKenzie came to a location which is now Titirangi's 11th hole ‘Redan’ and wrote, "This should make a famous hole". A remark based on his belief that the contours offered the opportunity to create a Redan-style hole similar to the original 'Redan' at North Berwick. Another admirable feature of MacKenzie's genius is that the four par-3 holes face in different directions. And there are few golf courses anywhere in the world where there's four par-3s that can match MacKenzie's four at Titirangi. Indeed and if you're up to it, you can accept Titirangi's ‘MacKenzie Challenge’ to collectively score par or better at all four par-3s. 'Redan' at Titirangi
Gulf Harbour on Auckland's North Shore was designed by Robert Trent Jones Jnr. who was fortunate in having such an interesting piece of land on the outer reaches of the Whangaparoa (Bay of Whales) Peninsula. There are interesting inland holes and some spectacular seaward holes and in particular the signature hole ‘Ta Moko’. Most photographs show the view from the tee which is set atop the cliffs and involves carrying a ravine to reach the fairway which doglegs to the right. However I've chosen the scene for the second shot which offers a better perspective of the Hauraki Gulf which played its part in yachting's 2003 Americas Cup contest. ‘Ta Moko’ at Gulf Harbour It takes approximately 45 minutes to drive from Auckland's CBD to Gulf Harbour Country Club, whereas it's only 20 minutes from central Auckland to Royal Auckland and it was a raw autumn morning when we entered the gateway to Royal Auckland. We had been granted reciprocal rights to play this Member's Only club. Auckland is too far north to see the best in autumn colours. You need to go to the Arrowtown area in the South Island to see something reminiscent of Vermont in the fall. However there was a definite feel of autumn in the Auckland air and the grey-day colours appeared to bring out the best in the clubhouse's exterior design. Autumn at Royal Auckland Since Auckland is an isthmus there's really only two roads out of Auckland. State Highway1 going north and State Highway1 going south. The drive north on SH1 to Kauri Cliffs takes about three and a half hours. And on the way up and close by SH1 there are some good golf courses.
Starting with Mangawhai Heads which is about 90 minutes from Auckland. Mangawhai Golf Club has a sand base and is described as an inland links course which several years ago before the creation of the likes of Kauri Cliffs and Kinloch, was considered to be, from the back tees the toughest 18 holes in New Zealand. Further up there is Waipu, a wee bit of Scotland both in that it has an annual Highland Games and a links-style golf course which is best played in winter since the course becomes very dried-out in summer. Nevertheless the sea views from the clubhouse are absolutely stunning and only a few yards from SH1. North of Waipu there's Waitangi which is a prominent place in the history of New Zealand. It was here on Friday 06, 1840 that representatives of the British Crown and various Maori chiefs signed the Treaty of Waitangi which is generally considered to be the founding document of New Zealand as a nation. Waitangi - Bay of Islands Waitangi is located in an area called the Bay of Islands which gained a world- wide reputation as a famous fishing destination when in 1920 the American novelist Zane Grey came here and publicised the fact that it would bring, "the best anglers from all over the world". And if there is one man who can be attributed with bringing the best golfers from all over the world and placing New Zealand on the global golf map it has to be Julian Robertson. A wealthy American who, like myself has a passion for this place they call, "Godzone". Kauri Cliffs
In 2012, Michael Dickison at the New Zealand Herald ran a story, "Billionaire's playground: Philanthropist's long love affair with the country". And in 2011, upon accepting the title of honorary knight of New Zealand Julian spoke of how he and his wife loved Godzone. Julian Robertson said, "It was a very emotional experience for me because New Zealand was a real love affair between my wife and me and the country. I can't tell you the number of times she'd wake up in the morning and look outside and say, "We're in paradise." The problem with Kauri Cliffs, and I don't mean the degree of difficulty of the golf course, is getting there. My golf mates and I refuse to pay the cost of catching a helicopter to go play Kauri Cliffs. And so it's a case of take the long and winding road Jack! Or whoever happens to be driving us. And that's OK if we've arranged to play Waipu and Waitangi along the way. However if it's a case of just up there and back we'll pass on taking the trip up north. Unless the wine-lovers in our group of guys talk us into also playing nearby Carrington. A three and a half drive from Auckland to Kauri Cliffs may mean nothing to Aussies and Americans however for Kiwis who live in a small country where in a short span of time the scenery can dramatically change it's often a case of a bridge (Auckland Harbour Bridge) too far. And it's here I must digress from writing about Godzone as a must play place on the global golf map. There's also the matter of the quantum leap in the quality of New Zealand wines. In 1973 and just off the boat from South Africa where I had enjoyed world famous wines, I was warned, "The wines in Godzone are gawdawful." And they were right. A bottle of ‘Bakano’ appeared to be the only available offering of a New Zealand red. And as for white wine there was the pseudo-authentic name of ‘Liebestraum’. Thankfully New Zealand wines have improved out of sight but I mustn't lose sight of the fact that there's no accounting for other people's tastes. A recent auction at Godzone's answer to eBay was a bottle of ‘McWilliams Bakano 1964’ and I find it hard to believe that someone actually bought it. Since I believe that Julian Robertson must be thanked for putting Godzone on the world golf map. I also believe that Alan Brady has to be applauded for driving global awareness of New Zealand wines. Some time around the 1980s I watched a news item on TV describing Alan's pioneering and typically Kiwi entrepreneurship in planting grapes in an area that's most times surrounded by snow-capped mountains in what would we be the world's southernmost vineyard. And it wasn't just the locals who thought he was crazy. Few if any of New Zealand's wine experts thought he'd a snow-capped chance in hell of success. Thankfully, the rest is history and just as Jack's Point is a must play course when in the Queenstown, South Island region. The Gibbston Valley winery is a must visit. Now where was I? Ah! Yes. My wine-loving golf mates suggesting we play Carrington as well as Kauri Cliffs. Karikari Estate winery is a very short distance from the Carrington course and Peppers Carrington Resort. It's a boutique winery offering beautiful views of the golf course and their Syrah has been described as, "A very masculine wine. Savoury leather flavour mixed with capsicum, mushroom and oak." Carrington was designed by Matt Dye who is related to world famous golf architect Pete Dye and this suggests it has to be worth having a look at since it's not all that far from Kauri Cliffs. Pete Dye's designs have been described as, "Tough but fair" and thankfully it's fair to say that Matt's Carrington layout is more on the fair side rather than being a tough test of golf. Carrington
Northland Province is rightfully-known as, "The winterless north" and when the winter weather in Auckland isn't so nice. It's nice to know we can go north. Come Spring there's the South Island and the nearer-to-hand Bay of Plenty and the Coromandel Peninsula. Titoki - Coromandel Peninsula Heading south and about half an hour out of Auckland there's the first major deviation from SH1. Taking State Highway2 and then State Highway 25 there is Whangamata on the Coromandel Peninsula. Every Auckland Anniversary weekend a group of us golf guys head for the Coromandel and our first game is always played on the Titoki Course at Whangamata. The Titoki course is always busy due to the fact that it's still summer and Whangamata is a very popular holiday spot for Aucklanders. Once upon a time the Coromandel was called, "A haven for hippies" and it still has its fair share of alternative lifestylers, painters and potters. However the times they are a changin' and in fact have changed. In 2004 they opened the Lakes Resort golf course. A half-hour drive from Whangamata and in a very short time it gained a reputation as a resort course. Tucked away in a valley abundant with typically Kiwi native bush and wetlands. Lakes Resort at Pauanui The course through careful design, has a non-intrusive feel about it. The lakes, waterfalls and stone bridges and the boardwalk through the native bush taking you to the 5th tee is something special with large Maori carvings to remind you that you are in Godzone.
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